The tale of Stanley Gough, forever resting in Rothesay

This post tells an emotional story that came about by chance, which began with a quest for photographs that connected me with a remarkable 92 year old gentleman in Wales and reveals the history behind a war grave in Rothesay and the bond of brothers that lives on past death.
This blog post is told over 2 parts, firstly because I think it is an important tale to tell and editing it to single blog size would be an injustice and secondly because the story is still ongoing and I would like to finish it with a happy and complete conclusion.

When I first started writing a blog I quickly realised promotion was essential if anyone was to find it among the world of a million bloggers and an overload of cyber information.
Twitter seemed the easiest way to locate an audience that might be interested in my stories and I proceeded to take the social media plunge.  Despite being an initial cynic I have found Twitter has opened my eyes to interesting people and places and every day my mind is expanded and delighted by the informative posts and photographs from those I 'follow'.

Every now and again I have come across tweets that intrigue me and the following simple request from the Scottish Military Research Group did exactly this.  "Rothesay folk please help.  A relative of man listed on this headstone would like to see whole stone and surroundings."

Well, being 'Rothesay folk' and having a curious nature I had to find out more.  The request was accompanied by a partial photograph of a memorial stone dedicated to the crew of MV Fishpool, killed by enemy action on the 14th November 1940.  It was also a post that I couldn't ignore, after all who could deny a request to assist someone view the forever resting place of a relative?  A task that I could easily carry out that might mean alot to this stranger.

So off I went to explore Rothesay High Street cemetery, camera in hand to seek out this important marker among the rows of mottled grey stones and carvings.
Cemeteries fascinate me, to some this might seem ghoulish, however to me headstones read like chapters in a local social history book.  You literally walk through the lives and stories of people from bygone ages, their legacy etched into stone to be discovered and remembered by future generations.

After much searching I came across the grave in question, situated near the bottom of the cemetery looking on to the trees and hills beyond.  I wondered why this stone, erected and dedicated to crewmen from England killed by enemy action during the Second World War stood proudly upright in a graveyard on this west coast Scottish island.  I also wondered which of the 9 names listed had a relative that was seeking them out 73 years later.

I wasn't sure that I would ever find out the reason for the request or the identity of the enquirer but I was still more than happy to help.  I proceeded to take a range of images, hoping that they would turn out well and that the relative would be satisfied with my results.  I e-mailed an assortment of 10 photographs that I was happy with back to the SMRG and nervously hoped that I had fulfilled the task to satisfaction.  They sent me thanks and my quest was complete.

I decided to try and research the fate of the MV Fishpool, however there was very little information that I could find online.  I discovered she was bombed on her maiden voyage in the North Atlantic, the Captain, 10 officers and 16 men were killed.  She was abandoned and eventually towed back to the Clyde, I assumed she was brought to the marine salvage in Bute, hence the connection, however I had no confirmation of this.
I also discovered that having survived this attack, she was bombed a further two times on different voyages, eventually sinking on the third occasion in July 1943.

The following day I was delighted to receive an e-mail from a Mrs Hill saying that she had sent the original request out on behalf of a Mr Winston Gough, who was the younger brother of Stanley Gough, a member of the crew of the MV Fishpool.  It transpires that Mrs Hill is the carer of Winston Gough, now aged 92.  I was very relieved to hear that he was more than happy with the photographs I had sent and they both wanted to thank me.

I could have left things there, after all I'd done my bit and everyone was satisfied but I couldn't help feeling that the most important part of the story was still untold.  The story of young Stanley Gough and the tragedy that robbed Winston Gough of his older brother. The story of a name, on a grave, in a churchyard, on a Scottish island, far from his home.  The story as to why after all these years the resting place of a brother was so important.

It was with much apprehension that I sent a reply to Mrs Hill, asking her if Mr Gough would mind me telling the story of his brother.  Two days later I received an e-mail which I nervously opened, hoping I hadn't offended or upset Mr Gough with my request.  To my surprise the e-mail was actually a series of scanned images of a handwritten letter from Mr Gough himself.  As I read the pages I must admit to shedding a few tears, firstly because I couldn't believe that this gentleman had taken such time and care to write to me personally but secondly because I could tell from his emotional writing that his brother lost to him many years before still meant so much.

This request by no coincidence was made on Remembrance weekend and a few days before the 73rd anniversary of the attack on the MV Fishpool.  'Lest we forget' seems such a fitting phrase for the story of Stanley Gough, killed aged 28, as told by his surviving younger brother Winston which makes up part 2 of this blog...

How wartime conflict has shaped the Bute of today

This weekend the annual Remembrance Day parade took place in Rothesay.  I thought it was a fitting time to turn my thoughts to how recent wars and the armed forces have played a role in shaping the Bute of today.
Whilst researching this post I have come across a wealth of information on the subject and could easily have written a book, however as this is a mere blog it only skims the surface of the war related history of the island.  If this is a subject you are interested in there are books, articles and websites that will provide much more detailed information.
Like most places in the UK and many other parts of the world, war graves and memorials on Bute provide a constant reminder of the losses of recent wars.  These wars past and present have created a landscape, history and population that only exist today because they have happened and are still happening.  For that reason it is important to not just acknowledge the losses but also how our current environment and way of life has developed from these conflicts.

War Memorial, Port Bannatyne

Looking around Bute now many of the remnants of wars fought close to home are either gone completely or are gradually being reclaimed by nature. The dominant autumnal backdrop of Rothesay is made up of two main woods, Skipper and Skeoch,  The trees that currently display a tapestry of colours were mostly planted post WW1, creating relatively young though pretty woodlands.
Walking along the quiet, leaf carpeted paths now it is hard to contemplate that their forgotten timber ancestors were mainly felled for wood during the First World War, making their own contributions to the war effort.  Some used for trenches and some for barrack huts, they offered protection in the way that only wood and trees can.

The beautiful Scalpsie Bay is home to more permanent wartime reminders.  Wooden posts, heading out to sea and lined up like military guards, cast small dark shadows across the sand. Cemented in, allegedly as anti-glider defences, to prevent enemy aircraft landing, they are gradually rotting to their cores as the salty sea washes over them.
More recently the nearby cottage was used as a listening post for enemy submarines patrolling the Firth of Clyde during the Cold War.  Cables were run into the sea and these were attached to listening devices under the water, the noises from which were analysed in the cottage. The purpose was to identify Soviet submarine propeller "signatures" and to try to assign these to particular vessels.

A decoy village that now only exists in history and memory was built on the north of the island during WW2 near Rhubadoch with Navy personnel intermittently switching lights on and off.  It's purpose was to divert the attention of enemy aircraft away from Clydeside towns and shipyards. The wooden framed 'village' never was bombed.

Port Bannatyne had a major submarine training Naval Base until it moved to Faslane in 1957.  All midget submarine and human torpedo training took place here, in fact it is believed at the time 95% of all British submariners trained here. The only remaining legacy is a pretty memorial garden dedicated to the 12th Submarine Flotilla, X Craft Midget Submarines, who between them won 4 Victoria Cross medals and another 65 prestigious medals.

Memorial Garden, Port Bannatyne

The Navy and it's personnel were a major contributor to the island economy and their leaving in 1957 was a considerable blow to a place that was already witnessing a decline in tourism.  In the following three years the population fell from 10,000 to less than 8000 and by 1970 the Navy left the island all together.
Although no longer based on the island, passing battle grey Navy ships are still a common site, either on exercise or heading to the fuel depot in Loch Striven opposite.

War memorials dot the island and graveyard stones with tales of heroism and tragedy are reminders of those lost during conflicts.
War casualties impact heavily in small communities and the numbers of young men who failed to return that made valuable contributions to their area and provided trades and skills meant that more than just lives were lost at war, sometimes a way of life was lost.

Kingarth War Memorial

However war has not just taken people from the island, it has also brought people to Bute.
During WW2 over 2000 children were evacuated here.  Looked after by kindly locals some of those children later returned to the island to set down roots and still reside here to this day.

Workers and armed forces personnel from many nations descended on the Isle of Bute, most notably to the Navy base and marine salvage at Port Bannatyne during WW2, it was inevitable that local girls would form relationships and later marriages to men from different nationalities.  This created a more eclectic and some would say exotic Bute population.

Today there are many ex armed forces personnel living on the island, some that have always called Bute their home and some who have found a new home here. Supported by the local British Royal Legion which provides welfare and support and a valuable drop in centre these ex-servicemen and women span a number of generations and conflicts and many provide important community contributions.

For such a small island Bute has witnessed more than it's fair share of wartime involvement.  From invading Vikings to invading Navy personnel, there is no doubt that the Bute of today has been moulded by the events surrounding these conflicts and the people involved.

Shorter walks for shorter autumn days

Bute has most definitely put it's autumn coat on.  The colours around the island have changed from lush greens and sky blues to browns and russets.  The sky has taken on an orange tinged glow most evenings and the autumn showers have produced the most spectacular rainbows over Rothesay Bay.
The replacement winter ferry has arrived as the summer tourists have departed and the Waverley paddle steamer and it's passengers have been bade farewell from Rothesay pier for the last time this year.
Due to work commitments in Glasgow, ongoing renovations in our new home, blustery wet weather and longer nights, I've had less time than I would like to continue my explorations of the island.
Instead of my daily walking and wandering for hours, I have been reduced to paying short visits to places new.  However, this has been no bad thing as it is allowing me to gather a list of spots perfect for short stops for others with limited time.
Rather than writing my post about one attraction, this week I've decided to feature three places well worth a visit that only require a little time (although you can spend much longer if time is on your side).

Kingarth Standing Stones

Surprisingly easy to reach, literally right next to the signposted car park (not far from The Kingarth Hotel) there are three standing stones, thought to be from the Early Bronze Age, about 1500BC. There were originally seven stones in the circle which were still there in the late eighteenth century. If you have the place to yourself there is certainly a strangely, quiet atmosphere around the stones and they are well worth visiting.
A closer look at the furthest away stone reveals graffiti carvings, another is being held upright by a metal bar and another split by the frost, as with many stone circles it's original purpose can only be guessed at..
The tree plantation next to the stones has lots of other worldly fungi sprouting up from the spongy, damp, dark earth and as you head further into the wood with the trees towering above, you may feel dwarfed into a place where enchanted fairytales could come alive.
If you have more time you can take a 30 min walk further along the road to the Largizean Stones (there is a board with a map at the car park).  They are in a nearby field, although due to my limited time I haven't actually managed to visit them myself yet!

Loch Quien Bird Hide

If you travel to Scalpsie Bay, a small detour on foot will take you to the bird hide overlooking Loch Quien. Loch Quien is a freshwater loch where local anglers can be seen fishing for trout and home to a large variety of birds.
There is a map at the car park of Scalpsie Bay and a signpost but basically you enter the field across the road from the small cottage previously used as a listening post.
A short walk along the burn, then through the gate and you arrive at the carefully camouflaged hide.  This is a great place for watching wildlife, there are feeding Ospreys among many other feathered characters and you may even be lucky enough to see an elusive otter.
On the day I visited it was particularly wild outside, with strong, cold winds and heavy rain, not ideal for wildlife watching.  However from the shelter of one of the windows I came eye to beady yellow eye with a graceful grey heron, sitting at the water's edge, literally a couple of feet away.
Sadly I couldn't take a photo as it would only have scared it off so instead I sat quietly enjoying the view.  In fact with such bad weather I couldn't take many photos in general, so I have made a note to return on a calmer day.
Again this is a place you could easily sit for hours and watch the flappings and splashings, but even a short stay is worthwhile as it is a beautifully peaceful spot in it's own right (especially when it's wet outside!).

Mount Stuart Reservoir

For the most beautiful watery reflections, architecture by the renowned Robert Rowand Anderson and at certain times of year, an abundance of dragonflies, a stop at the Mount Stuart reservoir is recommended.  To get there look out for the war memorial on your right hand side and a signpost for Moor Road as you head south from Mount Stuart (approx 4 min drive).  There is a car park behind the memorial then walk through the gate and follow the country track for approx 5 minutes.  There is a locked gate on your right hand side and you will see the reservoir beyond.
The round brick red buildings were designed by Robert Rowand Anderson, Scotland's leading architect at the end of the nineteenth century, when he was rebuilding Mount Stuart in the early 1880s.  The deep still water of the reservoir acts as a glassy mirror, reflecting perfectly the beauty of the surrounding landscape.
Again, if you have more time you can continue down the track past moors and farmland towards Loch Ascog, although before leaving make sure you take time to visit the memorial erected in remembrance to the local men lost during the Great War.

As the autumn turns to winter I look forward to brewing some hot tea and sitting by the window reading guides, browsing maps and researching more about this lovely island and continuing to share it's better known beauties and lesser known secrets.

To keep up to date with my daily explorations remember you can follow me on twitter at Buteiful Bute.