Wednesday 30 October 2013

Bute, the perfect autumn romantic retreat

An island stay with some of the mildest autumns and winters in Scotland, palm trees lining the front and only a 90 minute journey from Glasgow (and the bonus of decreased autumn/winter ferry fares) might seem enough reasons to choose Bute as a short break destination.  If you're planning some time away as a couple you will most likely be looking for a place that provides something relaxing, memorable and special.

There's nothing like taking some quality time out for two away from life's stresses, so what else can this little gem of a Scottish island offer as a romantic retreat this autumn?


With the summer tourists gone you can enjoy miles of empty beaches, with long stretches of sand and stunning views across to Arran and the Kyles of Bute, perfect for watching the last orange embers of the autumn sun setting over the water and behind the mountains.


Savor an island steeped in history with atmospheric ruins, mysterious standing stones and why not complete your stay with an obligatory visit to a romantic Scottish castle.


Enjoy a place where you can take a gentle but exhilarating uphill stroll and spend time together soaking up the peace and tranquility as you take in the beauty of the surrounding scenery around and below.  Where a cycle ride along quiet roads can take you past towns, beaches, sailboats, woods, lochs and farmland to an isolated picnic spot for two.


In the evening you can taste local produce and a relax over a romantic meal or choose to cosy up to the latest movie in the intimate little cinema or enjoy some quality laidback live music

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And at the end of the day you can retire to your waterfront accommodation and ease yourself to sleep with the relaxing sound of the waves and waken the next morning to beautiful sea views from the comfort of your bed.


If you've never considered Bute as a romantic destination before, now is the perfect time to explore this lovely island and enjoy a stay that will not only be memorable but also magical.

Remember for future blog updates you can follow me on twitter and now also on facebook.

Monday 21 October 2013

Bute's struggle with tourism

It's now been over 2 months since I became an official resident of Bute, in that time there has been one issue that bothers me every day. Yes, I'm heading down that controversial path of the ongoing problem of attracting and maintaining tourists to the island.

Prior to moving here I had visited Bute for a weekend mid-winter, rented a holiday flat for a week in the spring and came over for a few day trips so I have experienced the island as a tourist under several different guises.  This along with my now local status has provided me a good varied insight into the problem.

On my first trip here I didn't have high expectations, for those that live on the nearby mainland Bute is actually Rothesay in the same way that Cumbrae is actually Millport.  Rothesay, for most of those that should provide the annual lifeblood of day trippers and weekenders think this is the place your granny went when she was wee. A rundown seaside town on the Clyde that has little to offer.

A shocking survey conducted in Glasgow revealed 78% of respondents did not know where Bute was (perhaps would have been less if you had asked them where Rothesay was), 18% had never heard of it and 28% would not consider it as a holiday destination.  I'm not surprised at the first two responses although from personal experience I would suggest more then 28% would discount it as a holiday choice.
In fact when I announced that I was moving here most people questioned why on earth? and as it turns out most of those people had never visited either.  With the Commonwealth Games headed to Glasgow next year I wonder how many visitors will be tempted to Bute, providing any of my fellow Glaswegians can give them directions!

The view of the uneducated and ignorant you might think? The view of someone who wouldn't appreciate the place anyway, so no point them coming if that's what they think?
Until recently I would also have discounted coming here and I don't consider myself uneducated.  I had explored most of Scotland and indeed many parts of the world prior to visiting this Victorian town on my doorstep. When I did eventually arrive off the Rothesay ferry, I found an island beyond that I instantly fell in love with.

I recently joined twitter as a way of promoting my blog and was disappointed at the lack of followers for VisitBute compared to our island neighbours, especially considering Bute has the largest (albeit declining) population and has recently underwent a costly rebranding effort.  While I don't in any way claim twitter popularity as the defining test for destination desirability there is no escaping that in this day and age social media is a great indicator, at least, of marketing success.

As it stands today the twitter followers (with population figures from 2011 census) are

VisitBute 282 (population approx 6500)

VisitCumbrae 286 (population approx 1800)

VisitArran 3604 (population approx 4600)

(Just as a side note the twitter account for Mount Stuart currently has 793 followers, make of that what you will.)

It comes as no surprise Arran exceeds on twitter as it exceeds in marketing itself in general.  With whisky, beer, cheese, toiletries amongst others, the Arran brand is alive and kicking before you even start on the 'Scotland in miniature' slogan.  Those people I know that have never considered a trip to Bute have made at least one if not several visits to Arran.

With the sharp population decline and a general apathy by many locals and businesses I wonder if Bute will ever turn it's reputation around.  For those that can see past the faded grandeur the island is just as beautiful as the more popular and better known Scottish choices. It has several good restaurants, pubs, visitor attractions, walking, sailing and breathtaking scenery to name a few.  In theory it should punch above it's weight.

This is why every day I feel dismayed and frustrated by poorly presented shop fronts and displays with contents catering for a generation that does not represent the future, businesses that close at lunchtimes and Sundays despite weekend tourists and a general lack of entrepreneurism.  These individuals are failing not only the businesses and individuals that do care but the island's tourism and population as a whole and continue to perpetuate Rothesay's reputation and appearance of a has been seaside resort.

Everyone knows that tourism = money = jobs = a better quality of life = everyone happy.
Tourism on Bute currently accounts for approx 40% of the economy, not an insignificant number, but one that could still improve greatly.

Don't get me wrong there are plenty of exceptions, individuals and groups that take pride in their business and their island.  Sadly, when I pass some of these same businesses they are often quiet as the number and quality of tourists they aim to attract have not yet realised Bute has so much to offer.  It would be sad if they couldn't survive due to the failure to attract the right type of tourist.

There seems to be constant debate, reports and surveys on how to rebrand the island, how to attract more tourists and what problems need to be prioritised.  I won't get into the bigger often political issues but sometimes you just need to stop talking and start doing and more importantly you need to be passionate about what you do.

As a tourist and a local I love Bute, despite it's flaws, and I think it would be a disservice to stand back and watch the erosion continue.  I don't have big solutions but spreading the word about the amazing things Bute does have to offer via twitter, blogs and any other means is my own small way of championing this underdog of an island.  However, I do believe that it is the individuals with passion and perseverance, not restrained by politics, that often make the biggest changes.

Nostalgia about the Victorian heydays is all very well but that era is over never to return.  However, with some vision and initiative it is still possible to reverse the current reputation and in turn the future prospects for this little underrated gem of an island.

Tuesday 15 October 2013

Are you a walker or a wanderer?

This weekend I decided to tackle the first stage of the West Island Way from Kilchattan Bay to Rubh'an Eun lighthouse.  This was quite an undertaking for me, not physically but psychologically, only because I am normally not one for walking along organised routes or signposted pathways.  I am usually the lonely figure wandering off to the left while those in the 'know' give me strange glances as they head in regimented lines to the right.

Don't get me wrong, I'm all for official walking trails, I understand that with limited time they can offer the best opportunity to sample the varied beauty of a particular area or to follow in historic footsteps on a route hardly touched by time. They also offer the chance to meet fellow walkers and strike up friendships with a common purpose.  When you walk to the left you are far less likely to meet like minded individuals who have happened along the same pathways as you (although this is perhaps the point).

My failure when it comes to walking a set route marked out by pre-defined stopping points is that I am easily distracted and this can add hour upon wandering hour to any schedule. Set routes usually have timescales, usually for a good reason, however with my meandering tendencies I'm not so good at being limited by time. This can become a real problem if you have to reach a certain place before you are stranded in looming darkness or your feet are past compeed repair.

I like to head off the beaten track and make my own adventures, to have a closer look at objects washed along the shore, watch birds hopping about bushes, inspect old ruins of buildings or just sit and daydream on hillsides, benches, jetties, even damp patches of grass.
I often head out with a vague purpose before I start diverting along new found paths that lead off of other paths, that draw me off in new criss-crossing directions.  Along these new trails I can find all manner of things to distract and fascinate me, and of course so many things to photograph!



So with a promise to mostly keep to the marked signposts I set off to discover the merits of this island walking route.  Not wanting to spoil any surprises I deliberately didn't research my journey beforehand, knowing only that my destination was a lighthouse.
I made my way to the start of the trail at Kilchattan Bay and headed south past the rusty coloured boulders, lumpy pebble beaches and frothy white waves.  Three shy roe deer watched me timidly from the long grass as hungry buzzards circled overhead.


I did well to only deviate once on this stretch of the route as a little red plastic ball caught my eye sitting out of place amongst the pebbles.  I wondered where it's journey had begun and spent a while throwing it into the sea and watching it bobbily make it's way back ashore.  I guess wherever it had started, Bute was the place it now wanted to stay.


On returning to the path I was rather disturbed to find a rustic sign announcing 'very rough track ahead'. The use of the word 'very' alluded to some sort of danger but this only fuelled my adventurous spirit to meet and conquer this forewarned challenge head on.  As it turned out 'very rough' meant an uphill gauntlet of slippery rocks, bogs and some dinner plate sized cowpats! Thankfully I only managed one tumble and crashing of an elbow onto a rock, but thankfully my boots and elbow remained cowpat free.


As I headed upwards and through a little wooden kissing gate I was delighted to find a small cave. It may have been shallow and not very spectacular but the fact I had stumbled upon it meant I felt like a real explorer.  I wasn't so delighted to find the cave floor strewn with rubbish and broken glass, obviously used as a cave den by some thoughtless neanderthals, this was no doubt the most disappointing part of my walk.


Looking behind me I was greeted with a great view of the sweeping coast, and got a little distracted again enjoying the views across to my island neighbours, Little and Great Cumbrae.


As I turned the corner from the cave, the path opened up with browning ferns and autumn berries guarding and screening the way ahead.  The whole atmosphere seemed to change with one side flanked by a high rocky hill face, making it seem almost claustrophobic despite the open water on the opposite side.  By this point I had passed several more buzzards hanging and gliding in the air with anticipation of their next meal.


My next surprise was a large sculpted outcrop that popped up out of nowhere, standing like a lonely, towering sentinel, guarding against seafaring invaders.


Up until now I hadn't passed anyone else on the route or off the beaten track so it was quite nice to meet some company at the next marker.  A herd of curious sheep munching and contemplating my presence stood between me and my destination.


As I slowly moved forward the woolpack kindly stood aside but continued to warily watch my solitary wanderings.


Pressing ahead I finally spotted my destination perched in the distance, Rubh'an Eun (bird headland) lighthouse.  This little rusted beacon built in 1911 sits on the SW tip of Bute and the west entrance to the Clyde estuary.


This is a beautiful, peaceful spot with the surrounding scenery opening up to glimpses of Arran peaks beyond the hills.  Having reached my destination I permitted myself some time to sit and be distracted. In the desolate silence it was hard to believe that Glencallum Bay beyond was once thriving with drovers ferrying their livestock to the mainland.




This is where my West Island Way walk came to an end for the day.  With dusk creeping in it was time to head home, passing the still grazing sheep, below the circling buzzards and again into view of the skittery deer. Along the return path I stopped briefly to examine an animal skull peeking out the undergrowth, some fairy fungus and an empty eggshell, nestled amongst the grass, contents long gone (I told you I can be distracted by all manner of things!).




The complete route of the West Island Way is approx 40km (25miles), however you can easily choose to walk shorter well signposted sections if you prefer. If you have better time-management skills than me, the entire walk across the island can be done in roughly 12.5 to 16 hours, split into stages each day depending on your fitness and ability.  If like me, however, you have a tendency to wander rather than walk you may need a good while longer.

Saturday 5 October 2013

Why take the time to visit a Scottish Island if you're a traveller?

If you are planning a trip to Scotland then you are no doubt researching the merits of a historical tour of Edinburgh or a cultural visit to Glasgow, perhaps monster spotting at Loch Ness or a castle visit to Stirling.
If you want a different and authentic experience to add to your travels why not consider adding an island adventure to your itinerary?

If you're that traveller needing a break from the crowds, hustle and bustle, tourist trinkets, budget airlines and bumpy bus rides or just need time to sit back and reflect on life, the world, your journey, update your journal and find a place that is simply a tonic for the soul, then it's time to buy that ferry ticket and head to a place where there is no shortage of coastal contemplation!


Many Scottish islands are like a miniature, more laid back version of Scotland itself.  There are plenty of beautiful, accessible islands to visit, whether you are in search of mountains, whisky, music, outdoor pursuits, castles, history or just breathtaking remote scenery, then a boat ride (or a bus ride in the case of Skye) is a must.

Here are just 10 of my reasons why you should leave the mainland behind.

1. CHEAP ACCOMODATION - most main islands have hostel and budget accommodation. Wild camping is free and legal in Scotland provided you don't mind carrying a tent and following some sensible guidelines.

2. BEAUTIFUL BEACHES -  rather obvious but as islands are surrounded by water you get some of the most beautiful and cleanest beaches in Scotland, they are generally very quiet, often secluded and great places for those that do fancy camping.



3. WALKING ROUTES - free to do and with lots of officially marked walking paths, this is the cheapest and best way of getting a feel for a place and appreciating your surroundings.  The West Island Way is Scotland's first official long distance island footpath, running the complete length of the Isle of Bute.

4. ACCESSIBILITY - many islands are easily reached by ferry from the mainland.  The Isle of Skye has a road bridge and you can get the bus direct from Glasgow if you prefer.  The Isle of Bute is only 90 min from Glasgow by train and ferry.



5. SAFE - with low crime rates the islands are some of the safest places in the country.

6. SUPER FRIENDLY -  although Scotland is generally a friendly place, island dwellers seem to have that bit more time to chat.  Expect lots of hellos from welcoming natives.

7. FREE LIVE MUSIC - most of the main islands have free traditional music in some of their pubs or hotels, sometimes planned, sometimes improvised.  Look out for posters on the pub windows or ask at the tourist information.

8. RELAXATION - island life is that bit slower, no one hurries!


9. WHISKY - there are several islands with whisky distilleries you can visit and sample Scotland's golden nectar, the most famous being Islay. Also try Arran, Orkney, Skye, Mull and Jura. However any decent island bar will sell a malt or few, look out for malt of the month promotions.  Slainte mhath! (a drinking toast to good health)


10. PHOTOS TO MAKE OTHER TRAVELLERS ENVIOUS - with stunning scenery, beautiful sunsets and an abundance of wildlife there are plenty of opportunities to capture that memorable image. While every other tourist is clicking away for the thousandth time at Edinburgh Castle, you could be filming red deer, golden eagles, whales or a blazing sunset over the watery horizon.



The Visit Scotland website is a good place to start for more information about the islands around Scotland and for those with enough time or the inclination, island hopping is completely possible.
For those interested in visiting the Isle of Bute, I will be more than happy to provide up to date local advice and of course you can keep an eye on my blog or follow me on twitter (Buteiful Bute@ButeifulBute) for personal recommendations.

Everyone needs to take some time out on their travels every now and again, if you do, why not make sure that you choose to put your feet up in a place that will not only enhance your trip but provide you with some lifelong memories.